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Feng Huang Town – China – Lonely Planet travel video

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PLEASE Don’t Day Trip from Prague to Český Krumlov! Stay Overnight.

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One of the most popular day trips from Prague is the medieval town of Český Krumlov. So many tourists make the day trip from Prague to Český Krumlov with the best intentions, hoping for the highlight of their trip.

The truth? Český Krumlov is often listed as of the best day trips from Prague — but everyone else has realized the same thing. As a result, Krumlov is almost intolerably crowded during the day, especially during the summer.

I’ve been spending a lot of time in the Czech Republic lately, and one of my top priorities was to finally visit Český Krumlov. My boyfriend has lived in Prague for 18 years and works in the tourism industry. One of his top tips to his clients is NOT to day trip to Český Krumlov — instead, to stay overnight.

Overnight in Český Krumlov? I thought. But it’s only two hours away. That’s a perfectly fine day trip.

There is a specific reason for this, though. Český Krumlov has become enormously overtouristed in the past decade or so. As a result, doing a day trip to Český Krumlov means spending your day fighting through crowds, waiting in lines, and trying to get photos that don’t have a million people in them.

But after 5:00 PM or so, it all beautifully clears out. The crowds hop back on their buses, back to their whistle-stop tour of Central Europe. The day trippers go back to Prague to stroll the Charles Bridge and watch the Astronomical Clock.

When the town goes quiet, once the streets are empty, that’s when Český Krumlov becomes exceptional.

Table of Contents

Why Travel to Český Krumlov?Frequently Asked Questions about Český KrumlovČeský Krumlov OvertourismWhat can you do to avoid overtourism in Český Krumlov?Things to Do in Český KrumlovČeský Krumlov CastleCastle TowerCastle TheaterCanoe, Kayak and Raft the Vltava RiverSeidel Photographic Studio Museum (Museum Fotoatelier Seidel)St. Vitus CathedralRead The Bloodletter’s DaughterGet Photos from the Best ViewpointsEat Traditional Czech FoodČeský Krumlov at NightLe JardinApothekeMorning in Český KrumlovWhere to Stay in Český KrumlovBest luxury hotel in Český Krumlov: Hotel BellevueBest mid-range hotel in Český Krumlov: Hotel OldinnBest budget hotel in Český Krumlov: Pension GalkoHow to Get from Prague to Český KrumlovPrague to Český Krumlov by TrainPrague to Český Krumlov by BusPrague to Český Krumlov by Shuttle TransferPrague to Český Krumlov by Private TransferPrague to Český Krumlov by CarBest Time to Visit Český KrumlovShould You Visit Český Krumlov?How to Plan a Trip from Prague to Český Krumlov

Kate poses in a furry hooded coat in Cesky Krumlov's church tower-topped skyline

Why Travel to Český Krumlov?

Český Krumlov is a tiny medieval town in the Czech Republic. Like many Czech towns, Český Krumlov is beautifully preserved — you could imagine the skyline looking exactly the same in the 1400s. Because of this, the historic center of Český Krumlov was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.

The Czech Republic doesn’t get enough credit for having some of the most beautiful towns in Europe. (Turns out letting the invaders march in is GREAT for preserving your city’s architecture.) When I first came to Prague as a college student, I marveled at the candy houses, thinking this was one of the prettiest places I had ever seen.

Come to Český Krumlov and you’ll get to see more of those candy houses — but you’ll also get to enjoy a castle tower with a hell of a view. And a Baroque theater the likes of which you’ve never seen. And a river that is waiting to be rafted. And one of the country’s best craft cocktail bars. All in a small, walkable, adorable package without the noise and traffic of a big city.

If you’re traveling to the Czech Republic and you want to see more than just Prague, Český Krumlov should be at the top of your list.

I wrote this Český Krumlov guide to make sure you have the best visit ever.

Frequently Asked Questions about Český Krumlov

How do you pronounce Český Krumlov?

Český Krumlov is pronounced CHESS-ky KROOM-lov.

What’s the best way to get from Prague to Český Krumlov?

Don’t take the train to Český Krumlov — there’s only one per day and the station is far from town. I recommend arriving by bus, tourist shuttle, or renting a car.

Where’s the best place to stay in Český Krumlov?

I’m a big fan of the Hotel Oldinn and I think it’s the best place to stay in Český Krumlov. Hotel Bellevue is lovely if you’re looking for luxury, and Pension Galko is a solid cheap option.

Should you do a day trip from Prague to Český Krumlov?

PLEASE don’t do a day trip from Prague to Český Krumlov! It’s way too crowded with day trippers. Stay overnight and you’ll fall in love with the city. Here’s why.

Český Krumlov Overtourism

Overtourism has become a major issue over the past decade, especially in places like Venice, Dubrovnik, and Barcelona. Overtourism is when a certain destination has too many tourists within a small place and makes negative impacts on locals.

A lot of people think that Prague is the epicenter of overtourism in the Czech Republic — and if you head down the Old Town, you’ll understand its severity. Almost nothing in Prague’s Old Town exists for locals; it’s a sea of hotels, money change offices, and chimney cake sellers. My local friends in Prague rarely go there.

Thankfully, though, Prague is a large city and outside the city center, you have interesting neighborhoods that see very few tourists. I hope this is what keeps the city livable into the future.

Even though Český Krumlov gets fewer visitors than Prague — roughly 1.5-2 million per year to Prague’s 8 million or so — Český Krumlov’s overtourism problem is much more severe. This is primarily due to its size — it’s geographically tiny and there’s nowhere for people to spread out.

Tourism to Český Krumlov has increased enormously in the past decade. There are two big factors that account for this — the growing popularity of river cruising and massive increases in tourism from Asia.

River cruises were once a niche product but have recently become a popular way to explore Europe, especially for North Americans over 50. Ironically enough, Český Krumlov isn’t even a river cruise stop! The Vltava River is too tiny to support a cruise ship here. Instead, Český Krumlov is a popular day trip from Danube River cruise ports like Linz, Austria, and Passau, Germany.

As for Asian tourism, there was initially a wave of Korean tourists after Korean Air bought a 44% stake in Czech Airlines in 2013 and began running direct flights to Prague from Seoul. In the last decade, however, Chinese tourism to Europe has been increasing year over year, and according to the European Travel Commission, they’re heading further east, particularly to Hungary, Estonia, and especially Croatia.

Most East Asian tourists to Europe travel in large bus tours, primarily so they can have guides who speak their language. While it’s good that these tours make interesting destinations accessible to more travelers, large bus tours have a negative impact on small towns like Český Krumlov.

How bad is the overtourism in Český Krumlov? If you visit during the summer months, the small medieval streets will be packed wall-to-wall with people. If you’re looking to get one of the signature photos overlooking the castle or city skyline, you’ll have to push people out of the way. There will be lines everywhere; it will be tough to get into restaurants at lunchtime.

Things are a bit calmer in the winter months, particularly January and February, but overtourism is a year-round issue in Český Krumlov. It is crowded 12 months out of the year and the more busloads that arrive, the worse it gets.

What can you do to avoid overtourism in Český Krumlov?

Stay overnight in Český Krumlov. It’s that simple. It is JARRING how different it is at night.

People often ask me whether it’s worth visiting an overtouristed destination. You can avoid destinations suffering from overtourism if you want to, but that’s not always an option. Some of them have no feasible alternatives — there’s nowhere in the world like Venice. I don’t have the heart to tell someone that they should never travel to Venice if they’ve been dreaming of visiting their whole life!

Sometimes you can avoid overtourism by visiting in the off-season. This works spectacularly well for Dubrovnik, for example, but not so well in Barcelona, which is popular year-round. And for cruise ship hubs, you can often look up the port schedule and visit on the day when the fewest ships are in port.

But for popular day trip destinations, the answer is simple: just stay overnight.

This is the truth for Český Krumlov, for Mostar in Bosnia, for Bruges in Belgium, for Kotor in Montenegro. All of these are popular day trip destinations in Europe, and all of them empty out by the late afternoon.

And that is when the magic happens. It cools down, the light turns beautiful, and suddenly you have those winding streets to yourself. I’m betting that if you travel from Prague to Český Krumlov, you will like the city a million times more if you stay overnight.

Skyline view of Cesky Krumlov with the church.

Things to Do in Český Krumlov

So what are the best things to do in Český Krumlov? Most of the charm of the city is just strolling around and marveling at its beauty. Krumlov is a city made for wandering.

But there are plenty of sights. And if you’re planning on seeing several, I recommend getting the Cesky Krumlov Card. It costs 300 crowns ($13) for adults, 150 crowns ($7) for children, students, and seniors; and it gives you admission to Castle Tower and the Castle Museum, the Regional Museum, Seidel Photographic Studio Museum, Egon Schiele Art Centrum, and the Český Krumlov Monasteries.

You can buy the card at any of the five attractions it gives you access to, or the Tourist Information Centre in town.

Český Krumlov Castle

One of the highlights of visiting Český Krumlov is getting to see Český Krumlov Castle. You can enjoy the castle from the outside or explore the sumptuous rooms on the inside.

Guided tours are available in Czech, English, and German. There is written material in French, Italian, Spanish, Russian, and Dutch. Tours are 300 crowns ($13) per person.

Castle Tower

It’s 162 steps to the top of Castle Tower and the views are outstanding (especially in the afternoon). Your ticket also gives you admission to the Castle Museum, a small museum focusing on the castle’s history. Admission is 150 crowns ($7) for adults.

Castle Theater

This beautifully preserved Baroque theater is spectacular on the inside. The scenery is made from layered painted items that slide in and out. You must visit as part of a tour. English language tours are 270 crowns ($12) per person.

Canoe, Kayak and Raft the Vltava River

The river may be tiny around Český Krumlov, but travel outside the city and it gets strong! Shops in Krumlov will tell you what river trips are currently available. This is one of the best things to do in Český Krumlov during the summer months.

Seidel Photographic Studio Museum (Museum Fotoatelier Seidel)

This museum is actually the former home of local photographer Josef Seidel, who spent his life photographing Krumlov and its people. Entry is 120 crowns ($5) per person.

St. Vitus Cathedral

This is the white church on top of the hill in the city. It’s worth a quick peek. I was here just as locals were leaving Sunday Mass, dressed up far more than American Catholics!

Read The Bloodletter’s Daughter

I often enjoy reading books that are set in the place that I’m visiting. The Bloodletter’s Daughter by Linda Lafferty is a historic novel that takes place in Český Krumlov in 1606. Marketa is the assistant to her father, a bloodletter, who is hired to treat the madness of the Emperor’s bastard son Don Julius. As his illness progresses, Don Julius becomes increasingly dangerous and obsessed with Marketa.

(Full disclosure: I wasn’t a huge fan of the book. I loved the setting, liked the plot, and disliked the writing. You may disagree; writing is a subjective thing. But this is so vividly descriptive of Krumlov that I thought it was worth sharing.)

Get Photos from the Best Viewpoints

You might think that in a city as beautiful as Český Krumlov, you’re going to have gorgeous photos no matter what. But if you make an effort to visit the best viewpoints at the proper time of day, you’ll have even better photos. There’s nothing worse than getting to a photo spot and realize you’re shooting into the sun.

Here are the best photography locations:

Across from Hotel Ruze. The light is best in the morning. Scroll down and you’ll see rainbow shots!

Castle Tower. A must. The light is best in the afternoon.

Cloak Bridge at Český Krumlov Castle. You don’t need a ticket to enter. The light is best in the afternoon.

Just past Cloak Bridge on the left. There are half-moon shaped cutouts that are nice for framing St. Vitus’s Cathedral. The light is best in the afternoon.

Kaple Penny Marie Bolestné. See the little white building on the hill in the distance in the top right of the above photo? That’s the spot. It’s about a 30-minute walk from the old town. The light is best in the morning.

Eat Traditional Czech Food

If you’re spending a short time in the Czech Republic, be sure to try some Czech food! Český Krumlov’s medieval environment lends itself well to quirky, traditional restaurants serving up dishes that stick to your ribs.

This is garlic soup (česnečka), a popular Czech dish that is so much more than its name — it’s a buttery, herby soup with potatoes and croutons.

Tavern of the Two Marys looks like a restaurant of centuries past — you climb stairs in a quirky, narrow house decorated with blankets and two portraits of the Virgin Mary. You sit at wooden benches and dine on hearty Czech specialties.

Another fun option is Krčma Šatlava, a medieval restaurant where you dine in a cave-like atmosphere as meats roast on a roaring fire. Reserve ahead here; it tends to book out.

Český Krumlov at Night

In mid-December, when I visited, sunset in Český Krumlov is at about 4:00 PM — yikes! (The good news? Sunrise is around 7:50 AM at that time of year, so if you’re an early morning photographer, you can sleep in!) And of course, if you visit during the summer months, sunset can be as late as 9:10 PM.

Either way — night is the most magical time in Český Krumlov. The bus tours begin leaving at around 4:00 PM, and by 6:00 PM, the streets are empty.

Suddenly you can walk down the street and be one of three people rather than three hundred.

I felt so free in Český Krumlov after dark — and I loved the city more and more. Two of my favorite experiences in Český Krumlov were at night.

Bright orange pumpkin soup

Le Jardin

If you’re looking for a nice restaurant in Český Krumlov, or celebrating a special occasion, I highly recommend eating at Le Jardin. This restaurant serves elevated fine Czech cuisine.

Full honesty: I’m not a huge fan of Czech food ordinarily. I’ll eat goulash and dumplings on occasion, like if I’m at a brewery, but if I want a special meal, I’ll choose virtually any other cuisine.

Le Jardin is an exception. Their food is EXQUISITE, delicate and thoughtful and not stodgy at all, from the amuse-bouche through the dessert. You can eat à la carte or choose a tasting menu. The restaurant is small and cozy, like Český Krumlov itself. And the service is among the best I’ve had in Europe.

Le Jardin’s menu changes with the seasons. But the pork tenderloin and duck confit are both terrific, and if they have squash soup or pumpkin soup on the menu, I implore you to get it! That soup may be the best dish I’ve ever had in the Czech Republic.

Apotheke

But the best part of being in Český Krumlov overnight was spending an evening at Apotheke, one of the best cocktail bars in the Czech Republic (and there are a LOT of incredible cocktail bars in the Czech Republic). Apotheke was once an apothecary, or pharmacy. Today the booze serves as medicine.

It’s a very cool space, dark and old-fashioned and with lots of oddly shaped bottles.

We tried two of their signature cocktails — both spectacular. One tasted like raspberry Kool-Aid (and I easily could have drank that all night!) and one buttery cocktail was topped with popcorn!

You could tell the crowd were almost entirely locals. They were well-dressed, chatted with the bartenders, and seemed to know each other. It can tough to find a bar in a touristy town that has a cool factor but isn’t taken over by tourists. Apotheke is a rarity.

Make sure you bring cash! Apotheke is cash-only. There is an ATM when you leave the bar, take a right, and it will be on the left in what looks like a bit of an outdoor nook.

Apotheke does not permit photography. The manager graciously let me take a few photos after I showed him my media credentials, told him about the story I was writing, and had been there for awhile.

A few cocktails, another evening stroll, and I went to sleep surrounded by quiet and calm.

A rainbow in the sky over the orange-roofed buildings of Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Morning in Český Krumlov

If you’re a photographer, you’ll want to shoot Český Krumlov in the early morning — that’s your best chance for daytime shots without people in them. And staying overnight ensures that you’ll get to experience good light in different areas than you did in the afternoon.

When I woke up in Krumlov the next morning, the rain had cleared up. But we had the BEST result — a rainbow! A full, bold rainbow that stretched from one end of the skyline to the other.

We headed back to the viewpoint across from the Hotel Ruze and photographed the view with the blue sky, getting more rainbow shots.

After a stroll around town (I recommend stopping for a coffee at Kolektiv), we left at 11:00 AM. And BOY, was that fortuitous timing!

As I left the town, this was the view of the Cloak Bridge. Hardly any people in the morning sun.

No joke — not even ten seconds later, the crowds started pouring in from the big bus tours.

A woman holding a sign from a river cruise leads a tour group in Cesky Krumlov.

Right behind them were river cruise excursion groups led by sign-toting tour guides.

I couldn’t believe it. Had my fairy tale disappeared? I had enjoyed a quiet and beautiful morning in Český Krumlov, and by 11:00 AM, it felt like the city was under attack.

Staying overnight in Český Krumlov was a wise decision.

Where to Stay in Český Krumlov

You can find Český Krumlov hotels at every price point, and you get great value for money. Even though the city is primarily a day trip destination, the city caters well to its overnight visitors.

On my trip to Český Krumlov, I stayed at the Hotel Oldinn, which I really enjoyed and recommend. The Oldinn is a comfortable, newly renovated mid-range hotel in an excellent location.

Here are the top-rated hotels in each price category:

Best luxury hotel in Český Krumlov: Hotel Bellevue

In a city full of old-fashioned luxury hotels, Hotel Bellevue is a breath of fresh air. Modern, innovative, and tucked into a quiet corner of the Old Town, the hotel features a sauna, tennis courts, and even a bowling alley! The rooms are quiet and tastefully decorated in muted colors. The on-site restaurant, Le Jardin, is the best fine dining restaurant in town, serving exquisite Czech fare.

Be sure to get a room that is “deluxe” or higher — the “superior” rooms are very small. Rates from $217.

Best mid-range hotel in Český Krumlov: Hotel Oldinn

I loved my stay at the Hotel Oldinn. Located right on Náměstí Svornosti, one of the most picturesque squares in the old town, this hotel is modern with large, recently renovated rooms. The quotes painted on the walls add a touch of quirkiness, and the hotel provides room service.

Please keep in mind that Hotel Oldinn renovated in 2019 — if you see reviews talking about dated, old-fashioned decor, this was prior to the renovation. It now looks like the photo above. Rates from $62.

Best budget hotel in Český Krumlov: Pension Galko

Located in the heart of the old town, this five-room guest house is a cozy option if you’re traveling on a budget. Rooms are a bit small and dated, but the Bohemian murals are warm and cheery. Rates from $44.

Find deals on more Český Krumlov hotels here.

How to Get from Prague to Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov is a bit isolated — it’s not along any of the main transportation lines, and it’s not a strategic stop between major cities. You’ll be going a bit out of your way to get to Český Krumlov, but there are a variety of ways to get there.

Prague to Český Krumlov by Train

In the past, there wasn’t a Prague to Český Krumlov train. Today there is exactly one train that is limited to once per day, at 9:01 AM, and it takes 2 hours and 51 minutes, arriving at 11:52 AM. The one return train is at 2:07 PM and gets back to Prague at 4:56 PM.

While I prefer to take trains in Europe whenever possible, I don’t recommend taking the train from Prague to Český Krumlov. The trains are a bit awkwardly timed and Český Krumlov’s train station is about a 16-minute walk from the edge of the old town, much further away than the bus station (six minutes away).

The buses are more frequent, take about the same amount of time, and drop you off much closer to the old town (which makes a big difference when you have luggage).

Check train times and buy train tickets from Prague to Český Krumlov here.

Prague to Český Krumlov by Bus

Most people who take public transportation from Prague to Český Krumlov do so by bus. There are buses throughout the day and they take 2 hours and 45 minutes.

If you want to take public transportation to Český Krumlov, I recommend doing so by bus. The bus station is about a six-minute walk from the edge of the old town.

Check bus times and buy bus tickets from Prague to Český Krumlov here.

Prague to Český Krumlov by Shuttle Transfer

Shuttle transfers are usually a minibus that you share with other travelers. Many of them pick you up from your accommodation.

You can also book a shuttle from Prague to Český Krumlov, and book your next shuttle to a different destination — to Salzburg, Vienna, Halstatt, and more.

Prague to Český Krumlov by Private Transfer

If you’d like, you can hire a private driver to take you from Prague to Český Krumlov. This is the most expensive option but if you’re traveling in a group, it could work out to be the cheapest option.

You can book a direct private transfer to Český Krumlov or book a private transfer with up to three sightseeing stops along the way.

Prague to Český Krumlov by Car

Renting a car is an option, and I highly recommend road tripping all over the Czech Republic, not just its two most popular cities! There are great cities like Olomouc and Brno, there is gorgeous nature like the Moravian Karst and the Bohemian Switzerland region. There are even excellent Czech wineries when you go further east into Moravia!

If you’re looking for a good deal on a car rental, I recommend using RentalCars.com.

There is a parking lot right outside Český Krumlov’s city walls, next to the castle, with a rate of 450 crowns ($20) for 12-24 hours and 900 crowns ($40) for 24-48 hours. If that lot is full, there are several others on the same street.

If you’re driving from Prague to Český Krumlov and interested in UNESCO World Heritage Sites, stop by the town of Holašovice. It’s about 30 minutes from Krumlov.

The town received its World Heritage designation for its architecture, but the town doesn’t have any tourism value otherwise. It’s a cute place, but if you’re not into World Heritage Sites, you can give it a miss. We stayed for about 10 minutes, then continued back to Prague.

Other sites in the area you can visit are Hluboká Castle and the town of České Budějovice, home of the Budweiser brewery (the Czech Budweiser — nothing like the American counterpart!).

Best Time to Visit Český Krumlov

I’m guessing that you’re not going to plan your whole trip around one small city, but just in case, I urge you not to plan your trip to Central Europe in the heart of the summer. It’s incredibly crowded, it gets a lot hotter than you’d think, and the prices are at their highest.

If summer is your only time to travel, you can absolutely make the best of a visit. (If you’re a teacher or you have kids, I get it. Summer is what you have.) I would encourage you to visit earlier in summer, in June rather than August, if you can. August is the absolute busiest time in the Czech Republic and temperatures can be searing.

The shoulder seasons, spring and fall, can be a good time to travel to Český Krumlov. Temperatures are milder, but know that the city will still be extremely crowded during the day.

I visited Český Krumlov in mid-December. This is still a popular time to visit due to the growing popularity of Christmas market river cruises. Český Krumlov has a few Christmas markets, and they’re cute, but I recommend going to Germany instead if you really want the best Christmas markets.

The absolute lowest season in Český Krumlov is January and February. Tourism never dies here, but this is when it will be at its lowest (not to mention chilliest). I’m not a fan of visiting Central Europe during the winter months — it’s gray, dark and cold — but if weather isn’t a dealbreaker, you may enjoy visiting at this time.

Overall, I’d aim for November or December, or perhaps April.

But as always, no matter what time of year you visit, Český Krumlov will be far less crowded when the day trippers leave.

Should You Visit Český Krumlov?

One mistake I think a lot of travelers make is visiting Prague, then leaving and not seeing anything else in the Czech Republic. (Hell, I’m one of them. I visited the country for three days when I was 20, never left Prague, and didn’t return until I was 35.)

Český Krumlov is such a special town, and I think it’s the prettiest place in the Czech Republic. It’s absolutely worth your time to visit…

…just as long as you don’t do it as a day trip. STAY OVERNIGHT IN KRUMLOV!

People walking down the cobblestone streets.

How to Plan a Trip from Prague to Český Krumlov

Here is a cheat sheet on how to plan the perfect trip to Český Krumlov:

Step one. Choose a date for your trip.

Step two: Book your Český Krumlov hotel. I recommend the Hotel Oldinn; you can compare other Český Krumlov hotels here.

Step three: Book your transportation from Prague to Český Krumlov. Book train or bus tickets here; book a shuttle or private transfer; or book a car rental.

Step four: Make a dining reservation if you have your heart on a particular restaurant, like Le Jardin or Krčma Šatlava.

Step five: Get travel insurance. If you have an emergency, it could save your life or your finances. I use and recommend World Nomads.

Looking for more Central European gems?

How to Fall in Love with Kraków, Poland, in 30 Steps

Scenes from Košice, Slovakia

Summer on Lake Ohrid, Macedonia

Have you been to Český Krumlov? Share your tips!

The post PLEASE Don’t Day Trip from Prague to Český Krumlov! Stay Overnight. appeared first on Adventurous Kate.


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AK Monthly Recap: December 2019

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How do you mark the last month of the year — hell, the last month of the decade? Well, with a lot of round-up posts, as is traditional for me in December.

December is a weird time for a travel blog. It’s not a popular month for planning travel, so traffic is down. But if you have any kinds of display ads on your site, rates are at the highest of the year — so you work your butt off to capture traffic!

I spent most of the month working on my best-of-the-year posts — but I also took a 10-day trip to Europe and landed in Cuba just before the end of the year.

Let’s get down to it.

Destinations Visited

Reading and Lynn, MassachusettsPrague, Český Krumlov, and Holašovice, Czech RepublicDresden, GermanyHavana, Cuba

A Christmas tree in front of the cathedral in old town square, Prague.

Highlights

Spending more time in Prague. The Prague I’ve been getting to know is the Prague that most tourists have no idea exists. It’s comfortable and welcoming and a massively pleasant place to be once you get away from “chimney cake land” in the city center.

An overnight getaway to Český Krumlov. Český Krumlov is a beautiful town in the Czech Republic, beautifully constructed and looking like a fairy tale. It was gorgeous. Even better was staying overnight, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere after the day-trippers had left.

Visiting Dresden’s Christmas markets. Dresden is less than a two-hour drive from Prague, so we did a day trip. The markets were nice, especially the Medieval Market, but I still think Nuremberg is a better experience overall. Also, there was a mysterious lack of lebkuchen…

We also visited the Volkswagen factory that day and it was really cool seeing the vehicles being put together! They even had robots work on each vehicle.

Christmas at home in Massachusetts. Getting to spend time with my family, eating a lot of good food, and particularly enjoying a $25 gift limit, which removed a ton of the stress.

Making it to Cuba, country #83! Some places give me a rush when I arrive — an “I can’t believe I’m here!” type of feeling. Lebanon and the Faroe Islands were like that, and so was Cuba.

I had a lot of fun with my friends in Cuba, drinking Havana Special cocktails, and we did a wonderful cooking experience where we made the most heavenly lobster enchiladas. Getting to know Cuban people was one of the biggest highlights for sure.

A snowy backyard in Massachusetts.

Challenges

I didn’t like Havana much. I had decent but not sky-high expectations, but I didn’t expect to hold so much animosity toward the city. I’ll go into this in more detail on a future post, but I found Old Havana in particular to be loud, stressful, full of exhaust from the classic cars, men constantly hit on you (if you’re female) and ask if you want a taxi (if you’re anyone), you can’t take your eyes off the sidewalks and streets because they’re so broken, it’s really challenging to find decent food, and once you find a place with half-decent breakfast, it’s randomly closed the rest of your trip.

Please don’t take this as my full description of Havana, because the city deserves a detailed, nuanced write-up that acknowledges the beauty of Cuba and the shit Cubans have to deal with. I just found Havana to be extremely stressful and I kept needing to escape to my apartment. I loved Viñales, out in the countryside, but that’s for next month’s recap.

Some final financial hand-wringing of 2019. I’ve gone into the issues of not being paid on time in other posts, so I won’t rehash it here, but let’s just say that there were some final gems on top of a STELLAR year.

SNOW. It doesn’t snow very often in Massachusetts in December — we usually get one early dusting in November, then the big stuff hits in January — but we had three major snowstorms in a week during my time home!

A plane wing at sunset, over a dark cloudy sky.

Most Popular Post of the Month

My Favorite New Destinations of 2019 — Newfoundland took the top spot, and there were plenty of runners-up!

Other Posts

My Best Travel Moments of 2019 — The best experiences and moments on my travels.

My Favorite Reads of 2019 — My favorite 16 books of the 80 I read in 2019.

My Worst Travel Moments of 2019 — All the bad, awkward, and hilarious in retrospective moments.

A yellow building with a giant Cuban flag hanging from a window.

A Renewed Focus on Email

One of my big goals for 2020 is to double my email list — a.k.a. my newsletter. Why? Because if you’re only following me through Facebook or Instagram or somewhere else, you’re going to miss posts. Social networks cut off reach for brands because they want us to pay to reach our own subscribers — but with an email list, you reach EVERYONE.

I take time to write out really nice, personal emails 2-4 times per month. NEVER spam, I NEVER sell your info, you can unsubscribe anytime, and it’s just a simple text-based email telling you what I’ve been up to lately, what’s coming up next, and my new and updated posts since the last email. I just designed a new landing page where you can sign up for my list — check it out!

If you’re a blogger, you absolutely need an email list. It’s more important to have than Facebook and Instagram combined. I use ConvertKit for my email list and I highly recommend them — they’re the best in the game.

ConvertKit is also having a landing page challenge this month where they’re giving away tons of prizes, including $10,000 to the grand prize winner. If you get at least five subscribers from your page, you are entered to win, but the biggest prizes are if you get 100 or more. You can sign up with ConvertKit, build a page in 10 minutes, and qualify to win by January 31!

But if you’re a reader and you enjoy what I write here, I bet you’ll love my emails. You can sign up here.

View this post on Instagram

Until today, I didn’t have any photos of #Prague that I truly loved. But the weather was SO gorgeous and perfect that I couldn’t resist going out. Look at those beautiful blues and oranges! 😍 The perks of visiting Prague in December? You’ll have great light throughout the day as the sun sets at 4:00 PM! And if you’re getting up to shoot at sunrise, you can sleep in, as it’s at 7:55 AM. Now that’s music to my ears. 🇨🇿 What’s your favorite thing to do in Prague?

A post shared by Kate McCulley (@adventurouskate) on Dec 16, 2019 at 9:56am PST

Most Popular Photo on Instagram

I hadn’t taken many pictures in Prague this fall — in part because the weather was often dreary. But one day it was absolutely BEAUTIFUL and I went out to the Old Town to get some photos. This was taken from the tower on the Charles Bridge, where photos will look excellent even when it’s crazy crowded.

For more live updates from my travels, follow me on Instagram at @adventurouskate.

What I Watched This Month

This month I got into the latest season of The Crown. What a fantastic show. And the miracle is that it’s given me so much empathy for Prince Charles! I just want to hug him.

The new cast is great, too. It took a moment to get used to the new people, but Olivia Colman is excellent and while Helena Bonham-Carter doesn’t really look the part, she brings so much vivaciousness to Princess Margaret.

My favorite episodes were Aberfan (what a gut-wrenching tragedy! I had never heard of it before), Margaretology, and Imbroglio. Really excited for The Crown Season Four, which I’m sure we won’t get until early 2021, because Diana will be introduced!

Movie-wise, I absolutely LOVED Marriage Story. It might edge out Booksmart for my favorite movie of the year! I love movies that are all about the dialogue — just characters that reveal hidden depths of themselves with all the talking. I’ll be especially rooting for Adam Driver at the Oscars this year.

What I Read This Month

I finished the year having read 80 books! Woohoo, new record! Currently I have a lot of books in my library queue and am looking forward to getting back into them again. Even so, I’m not going to push myself too hard on reading this year. I have a lot of other time-consuming goals on my mind.

In the Dream House by Carmen Maria Machado (2019) — In this incredible memoir, my favorite nonfiction book of the year Machado mixes queer domestic abuse with various literary genres. Machado began a relationship with “the woman from the Dream House” in her twenties, while studying at the Iowa Writers’ Workshop.

Over time, her girlfriend became verbally and physically abusive, from manipulating her, picking fights, screaming at her, physically harming her, throwing things at her, gaslighting her the next day. This memoir chronicles the relationship with chapters in different literary styles: Dream House as Stoner Comedy. Dream House as Noir. Dream House as American Gothic.

This book is stunningly original and completely gripping. I plan on reading more of Machado’s work in the next year, including Her Body and Other Parties, which was nominated for the National Book Award in 2017.

Don’t Come Home by Bea Bledsoe (2019) — Leigh Montgomery is the first person in her family to escape her isolated Wyoming town — and she earns a scholarship to Harvard. While there, she suddenly loses part of her financial aid and decides to seduce and rob rich boys. Suddenly she receives a postcard from her mother reading, “Don’t Come Home,” with a bloody thumbprint — and Bea knows that no matter what her mother says, she needs to go home. On the way to the airport, she is confronted by one of the boys she stole from and he decides he’s going to join her on the trip to Wyoming.

I love books with a strong setting that almost acts as another character, and the wild, isolated, mountainous landscape of Wyoming definitely becomes a character in this book. You can feel the setting surround you, poking you. You can feel every inch of the forest; you can hear the screaming wind in your mind. The thriller, which is available on Kindle only (and pretty cheap or free as a result!) goes in a lot of directions you don’t expect and was a nice read.

How We Fight For Our Lives by Saeed Jones (2019) — Jones grew up in a small town in north Texas, the only child of a single mother. He knew he was gay from a young age and did his best to keep it under wraps, but once going to college, he was able to flourish in a new way and slowly grow to being the person he was meant to be.

This is one of the most intimate memoirs I’ve ever read. I felt like I was living his relationships with his family — especially when his mother told him that they didn’t have enough money for him to go to NYU, his dream school, and when his grandmother joined a more fundamentalist church and began to reject him and his mother due to their being Buddhists. Some of the moments in the memoir are so uncomfortable that I found myself struggling with pain. It takes a major gift to bring a reader in so closely.

A Song for You: My Life with Whitney Houston by Robyn Crawford (2019) — Ever since Whitney Houston became famous in the 1980s, there where constant rumors that her best friend, Robyn, was actually her lover. Now, seven years after Whitney’s death, Robyn is telling her story for the first time. Yes, they were lovers, when they were teenagers and into their twenties, until they stopped for the sake of Whitney’s career. They remained fiercely close friends and business partners until Whitney’s drug abuse tore them apart.

More than anything, this book made me so sad. Had Whitney been allowed to be her true self and love the woman she loved publicly, she would probably still be with us today. Instead, she got involved with Bobby Brown (and you will HATE him after this book) and was surrounded by leeches trying to get whatever they could out of her.

Robyn hung in there until she had to get out for her own sanity, and even when she and Whitney were no longer speaking, Robyn and her wife decided that they would always take Whitney and her daughter into their home if they needed it. Their relationship was that deep. They were closer than sisters.

Coming Up in January 2020

This is a big month — January 2020 marks the 10-year anniversary of this blog. I’m not sure what I should do for it. Yet another heartfelt retrospective? Or should I save that for my 10-year I-quit-my-jobaversary on September 14?

I kicked off the year in Havana and visited the gorgeous region of Viñales in western Cuba before flying to Mérida, Mexico, where I’ll be living for the next two months. The house is so good that I keep singing, “My God, this house is freakin’ sweet!” in the voice of Peter Griffin.

I’ll primarily be based in Mérida, but I know there will be plenty of day trips and overnight trips throughout the region!

Also, I’ll be coming back to New York for three days — just barely long enough to attend IMM, an all-day travel industry speed networking event that is one of my biggest priorities of the year. Hope I can handle the cold after all the Mexico.

What are you excited for in January? Share away!

The post AK Monthly Recap: December 2019 appeared first on Adventurous Kate.


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